Tux Season: The perfect ensemble for the festive season
A no-nonsense guide to selecting the perfect tuxedo
If you’re new here, welcome!
I’m Dzifa Ababio, and for the past 14 years, I’ve been deeply immersed in the world of menswear. My journey began right after college when I started sharing my outfit looks on a blog called Spotes for Esquires. This passion eventually led me to step away from a legal career and dive into entrepreneurship, pursuing an MBA and a brand management role with a Fortune 500 company along the way.
These days, I channel my experience and passion into curating collections of refined, versatile pieces designed to endure the test of time. I invite you to join our community—be among first to shop my menswear collection by signing up for the waitlist here. In the meantime, if you’re interested in custom made clothing, you can always reach out to me to schedule a private fitting.
Separately, I’m an Ashtanga Yoga student and I practice Mysore style 3 times each week. I also teach yoga and I am actively building a community of yoga enthusiasts across Africa. You can explore my personal yoga journey here and my community building activities here.
Consistency has been a challenge, but for the past several weeks, I’ve committed to writing this column weekly. Here, I explore the finer details of menswear, sharing insights to inspire and inform.
In Case You Missed It: Check out my last entry on choosing the right shirt for the ocassion
Enjoy the read, and remember to KISS—Keep it Simple & Stylish.
Whether you call it "Tux Season," "Wedding Season," or the more festive "Detty December," that special time of year is just around the corner. With endless events on the horizon, I’ve already received a few save-the-dates for weddings and parties. Despite not feeling particularly social these last few years, I’m aiming to attend at least one or two events.
Given my newfound chest gains from all those Chaturanga push-ups during my yoga sessions, my trusted tuxedo felt a little snug. So, I decided it was time for an upgrade. My team recently sent over a fresh Tuxedo swatch book, and I enthusiastically dove into it—only to be overwhelmed by the sheer number of options. It reminded me why Steve Jobs stuck to his iconic black turtleneck—fewer decisions to make.
After spinning my wheels for weeks (yes, weeks), I realized that if I, a so-called menswear enthusiast, was struggling, then it was time to create a straightforward guide for selecting the perfect tuxedo. Not only would it help me, but it would be a great tool for my clients gearing up for the season.
Here’s a no-nonsense, simplified guide to choosing the right tuxedo. Spoiler alert: you don’t need 10 tuxedos. One or two will do just fine. But, of course, let's start with a bit of history because I can't resist.
The History of the Tuxedo
The history of the tuxedo traces back to the late 19th century when an American, James Brown Potter, visited the United Kingdom on a social trip. During his stay, he encountered the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII), who introduced him to a garment unlike the traditional evening tailcoats popular at the time. The Prince had commissioned a more relaxed, yet elegant, evening suit for private dinners. This garment, which stood out amongst the British tradition of formalwear—morning coats, tailcoats, and frock coats—impressed Potter so much that he brought the style back to New York. Soon after, Potter wore it to a formal event at the Tuxedo Club, a prestigious social club in upstate New York, where it quickly gained popularity. The garment became known as the "tuxedo," forever linking the name with black tie elegance.
The Tuxedo and Hollywood
Over the years, the tuxedo became synonymous with timeless icons like the James Bond character and Hollywood’s elite such as Frank Sinatra, Sidney Poitier, and more recently, with icons like Jay-Z and Idris Elba. From red carpets to weddings, the tuxedo has been cemented as a sartorial classic that men return to time and again.
Choosing the Right Tuxedo
When selecting the right tuxedo, several factors come into play, from the style of the lapel to the overall cut of the suit.
Lapels: Traditionally, tuxedo lapels are made of satin, providing a subtle sheen that contrasts with the matte texture of the jacket’s fabric. However, for velvet tuxedos, the lapels are often made from the same velvet material as the rest of the jacket for a more cohesive, refined look.
Peak Lapels: These are the most formal and traditional lapel type, featuring sharp edges that point upwards toward the shoulders. This style adds height and visual balance, making it an excellent choice for men of shorter stature or broader body types as it elongates the frame.
Shawl Lapels: Smooth and rounded, the shawl lapel is a softer, more streamlined option. While less formal than peak lapels, it is a great choice for those with a slimmer build or those who prefer a less structured appearance.
Pockets: Tuxedos usually come with either jetted or besom pockets—both sleek, slit-style pockets without flaps, preserving the streamlined elegance. The pocket style is another detail that keeps the tuxedo looking minimal and refined.
Single-breasted vs. Double-breasted: Single-breasted tuxedos, with their single row of buttons, are the most popular and versatile option, suiting almost every body type. Double-breasted tuxedos, which feature an extra layer of fabric that folds over the front, are a bold and commanding style, better suited for men with broader shoulders, drawing attention to the upper body and providing a powerful, confident silhouette.
Choosing the Right Fabric
The fabric choice for your tuxedo is pivotal, not only for its appearance but also for comfort and personality expression. The most common fabrics include wool, velvet, and jacquard.
Wool: Wool tuxedos are the most versatile and widely worn. Lightweight and breathable, they’re ideal for most climates and seasons. Wool suits anyone looking for a classic, understated image. The fabric drapes well and is durable, making it suitable for both the confident minimalist and the elegant traditionalist. Wool is perfect for formal events year-round.
Velvet: Velvet is a bold choice, often chosen by men who enjoy making a statement. The plush, textured fabric is often seen in jewel tones like deep green, burgundy, or midnight blue, can be worn for more creative black-tie events. It’s best suited for someone with a strong sense of personal style, who enjoys attention and flair.
Jacquard: A fabric distinguished by its intricately woven patterns, jacquard tuxedos offer a unique, textured look that stands out from traditional materials. The design is woven directly into the fabric, creating a sophisticated, dimensional effect that feels rich and elegant. Jacquard tuxedos are perfect for men looking to make a statement at formal events, offering a subtle yet eye-catching alternative to classic satin or wool. Ideal for evening wear, they provide a refined balance of artistry and individuality.
Colors: Tuxedos traditionally come in black, but midnight blue has emerged as a popular alternative due to its rich appearance under evening light. For those looking for something less conventional, deep burgundy and forest green can be bold yet tasteful options, while ivory or cream-colored jackets are often worn for summer black-tie events.
Trousers, Shoes, and Shirts
Trousers: Tuxedo trousers are regular or high-waisted and feature a satin stripe down the side to match the lapel. These trousers are designed to be worn with suspenders, not belts, which maintains the smooth silhouette without breaking up the lines of the ensemble. Pro-Tip: With a pair of midnight blue wool tuxedo trousers and a black wool tuxedo pair, one can effortlessly mix and match with different jackets. These two trousers provide a foundation, granting a fresh statement by simply adding a new jacket.
Shoes: Patent leather shoes are the traditional choice for tuxedos. The shiny finish gives them a formal, polished appearance, making them perfect for black tie. Patent leather’s popularity dates back to the 19th century, when its sleek appearance made it a staple for formal occasions.
Shirts: A tuxedo shirt typically features a bib front, either pleated or piqué, for added texture. Wing collars or spread collars are both acceptable, though wing collars are more traditional for formal wear. French cuffs, which require cufflinks, add a touch of sophistication to finish the look.
Etiquette and Accessories
Attending a black-tie event requires attention to detail and adhering to certain rules. Black tie is considered the most formal of dress codes (outside of white tie), typically reserved for evening events like galas, weddings, and formal dinners.
Bowtie: A classic black silk or satin bowtie is essential. Always opt for a self-tie bowtie. Pre-tied options lack the authenticity of the real thing. (Easy Bowtie Tutorial)
Cufflinks and Studs: Cufflinks, along with shirt studs (if the shirt has holes for them), should match your other accessories—usually in silver or gold, depending on your overall ensemble.
Pocket Square: A simple white silk or linen pocket square adds a touch of elegance without being overwhelming.
Avoid over-accessorizing at all costs. The beauty of a tuxedo lies in its simplicity, so any additional elements should enhance, not detract from, the outfit’s sophistication.
Final Notes
One tuxedo, two events: Owning just one or two well-tailored tuxedos can carry you through most formal occasions.
Stick to the classics: Wool for versatility, velvet for boldness, and jacquard for individuality.
Fit over everything: Even the finest tuxedo is nothing without the perfect fit.
Still debating fabric choices or wondering which accessories to pair with your tux? Let’s chat—I’m here to help.